12/2/2023 0 Comments Cub cadet mini dozer for saleThe 1210's hydro is ported, so I'll probably swap that to one of the cast iron axles. Plus many body parts from the 129 that was the second donor for the grader, so I'd be going for a WF look, using the frame from the 1210, the two cast iron axles, and the hood/grill from the 129 and other WF parts. I've got two spare hydro axles, and a complete 1210 (with a third, albeit aluminum) axle. On the other hand, that might put the front axle out too far forward, so the engine above the axles may look better. To retain the look of a cub with tracks, I need to keep the engine down low, with crank in line with the hydro inputs, each side of the motor driving one hydro, perhaps with a Cub clutch to disengage one of them for starting. Yes, I would idle diagonally opposite axles. Some of your best ideas will pop into your head while fishing. Would you idle the opposite axles (front left, rear right say) and lock the crown/carrier gear to one axle per end? I would consider a HP rated centrifugal clutch to replace the original for simplicity and options on belt sizes and dual pulleys. Reverse and forward speeds would remain the same with no mods to the swash plates. Set the engine PTO clutch over top the front axle input and belt drive down. There is more tweaking to be done on the rear idler sprockets and, of course, the hole-cutting to be done on the track pads but for the most part, it's all working.The easiest may be to set it up just like your grader, just with the axles farther apart. I'll also rig for a 3-part line which will take a lot of stress off the winch mount and fairlead. I replaced the sheave with a sheave from an ATV rated for 5,000 lbs and am going to change the cable attachment point. It's a stamped steel pulley with a 500 lbs max rating. The rear lift pulley on the ROPS blew the bearing out. A bit of finesse goes a long way toward saving spider gears. Once you get used to it, it's actually easier as it makes wider, easy turns rather than the dramatic, violent and unpredictable zero-turns it wants to make on concrete, or the trailer bed! Differential steering is not the same as clutch/brake steering, but it works fine so long as you don't horse it. It doesn't like to turn when the tracks are down into full contact with the dirt, so we just put some pressure on the steering brake and let it come around as it will. The steering is, well, differential steering. I'll use the downtime to do a bit of checky/looky/adjustment. We did close to 6 yards of soil moving before getting chased off by the rain. It should work better with the 4 yards of gravel we've got coming to fix the driveway. It works fantastic with the caveat that the topsoil is really sticky and won't dump all the way. Rather than just trip the latch to dump it, we've been setting the bucket down, tripping the latch (it locks in the open position) then driving off while lifting the bucket. It's all the rear winch can do to pick it up full. All I can say is that it will fill and move waaaaaay more than a full wheelbarrow of soil. I didn't want it to be wider than the dozer so it's 36" wide by 20" long by 17" tall. So far it has, but I'm giving some thought to adding an alternator at some point. I'm also curious to see if the generator can keep up with the winches and electrics. So far the tracks have been working well and we've had no more problems with the chain filling up with dirt over the pads but it has been a problem in the past so best to get that done. I still need to pull the tracks off and take them to a buddy of mine to have the holes cut in the track pads. Still need to source one more turnbuckle so I can make those. The blade is working really well and all that remains is to add the two lower push arms to take a little stress off of the center push point. I have also been adding a few various cable tiedowns to keep wiring up and out of harms way. Now I won't have to worry about tearing the winch mount off by overzealously raising the 3-point. I finally assembled all the necessary bits to install the 3-point hitch limit switch. They fill with water every time we wash it. I also need to drill a largish hole in the bottom of both caliper mounting brackets so water can drain out. Pretty easy to make and should take care of the problem with the mounting bolts coming loose. For the caliper I'm going to make an angle bracket that will bolt from the caliper mount to the left side frame rail. There were a few bolts and nuts that needed tightening as well as the left side caliper that was starting to get loose again. After the big "work day" debut, I brought the dozer back to the garage for a thorough looking over.
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